Koroška: the valleys of three rivers, the mine below Peca and the ski resorts on Pohorje
Koroška lies in the north of the country, squeezed between the Karavanks and Pohorje, and three rivers that gave it its shape flow through it: the Drava, the Meža and the Mislinja. It is the rivers that shaped three valleys with towns on their floors, and between them rise forested slopes on which you can walk for hours without meeting anyone.
This is a region that tourists often do not put on their list. Yet it has two things you rarely find together elsewhere: an industrial heritage you can visit underground, and high-lying ski areas. If you are looking for places without crowds, Koroška is among the most rewarding parts of the country.
Slovenj Gradec and the Mislinja Valley
Slovenj Gradec is the cultural centre of the region, with a compact old core, galleries and a museum. The town presents itself as a herald of peace, which stems from its link with the United Nations and the exhibitions created around it.
For a visitor this means that it is right here that you can find the most to do on a rainy day. You walk across the old core in an hour, and from the surroundings you can climb Uršlja gora, the most recognisable peak above the town and a viewpoint over all three valleys.
The Meža Valley and the Underground of Peca
In Mežica was for two hundred years an active lead and zinc mine, and today part of its tunnels is arranged as a tourist mine with a museum. You can descend beneath Peca on foot, ride through the tunnels by bike or even row through the flooded parts, which is an experience unlike any other in the country.
Above the valley rises Peca with the legend of King Matjaž, who is said to sleep inside it. Črna na Koroškem at the end of the valley is the starting point for the mountains and for a smaller ski resort, which is known for having produced many competitors.
the Drava Valley and Dravograd
Dravograd lies where the Meža and the Mislinja flow into the Drava, so it has always been a traffic junction. The Drava Cycle Route runs through it, linking Austria with Maribor and on towards the east.
East of the town the valley narrows, and the river spreads into reservoir lakes, along which you can cycle or watch birds. Today these are among the more popular places for bird-watching and for quiet cycling by the water.
Ravne na Koroškem and the ironworking heritage
Ravne na Koroškem grew up around the ironworks, which still operates today and gives the town its character. The industrial heritage here is visible in the urban layout, in the museum and in the park of steel sculptures, which you can visit free of charge.
The town is at the same time a starting point for hiking trails to Uršlja gora and for visiting the neighbouring valleys. If you are interested in how industry shaped this part of the country, see Ravne together with Mežica.
Winter in Koroška
In winter the region is most visited, because there are ski resorts scattered on both sides of the valleys. Kope on Pohorje lies highest, while the smaller ski areas are closer to the towns and more family-oriented.
Besides skiing, there are cross-country trails, sledging and ski touring across the forested slopes, which because of their position often stay snow-covered longer than the valleys. The whole the winter offering you will find gathered in one place.
What to do in Koroška?
In summer, cycling along the Drava, hiking up Uršlja gora and Peca and a visit to the mine, the only destination of its kind in the country, are to the fore. For a quieter day you can choose one of the valleys, where there is little traffic.
In winter the programme moves to the ski slopes and cross-country trails scattered across all three valleys. You will find an overview of the offer among experiences in Koroška.
Koroška with children
The most rewarding family destination is the tourist mine in Mežica, because the mine-train ride is understandable to children without explanation. The temperature underground is similar all year, so take a jacket with you even in summer.
In winter the smaller ski resorts are suitable for beginners, because the runs are short and there are almost no queues, and in the rain there remain the museums in Slovenj Gradec and in Ravne.
Koroška for two
For a quiet weekend, choose a farm in the hills above one of the valleys and split your days between hikes and sightseeing. The region is small enough that you can visit a different valley each day without moving.
If you are looking for something different, head underground in Mežica or up Uršlja gora at sunset, from where you can see all three valleys at once.
What and where to eat in Koroška?
The cuisine is mountain and borderland: obara stew, ričet, buckwheat dishes, and here Carinthian cured meats replace the Prekmurje influences. Among the desserts, at the smaller providers you will often find šarkelj, baked to a home recipe.
The offer is scattered across the valleys, and most of the inns and farms are along the main roads. As the choice is smaller than in the larger centres, you can secure a table at an inn in advance, especially at weekends.
Where to stay in Koroška?
The offer is smaller than in the alpine part of the country, so arrange your accommodation in advance, especially during the winter holidays. There is most of it apartments and private rooms along the valleys.
For a stay near the ski runs, more practical are accommodation near the ski slopes, and for a quieter break the tourist farms above the valleys. You will find the whole offer under accommodation.
Where to go on a trip from Koroška?
To the east the Drava valley continues to Pohorje and further on to Maribor, which is a good hour's drive from Dravograd. To the north is the border with Austria, where the Lavant Valley opens up.
South of the region lies the Savinja Valley with the Logar Valley, which is close enough for a day trip. If you are planning a longer route, across Pohorje you can also reach Zreče and Rogla.
