Radovljica

Radovljica: an old centre above the Sava, between Bled and Kropa

Radovljica stands on a narrow spur of a high Sava terrace, where the valley of the Sava Bohinjka and the Sava Dolinka opens towards Bled. Its old town core is protected as a cultural and historical monument, which means the square has remained uniform and low, without newer insertions. If you are looking for an Upper Carniolan place with an urban character and without the Bled crowds, Radovljica is the closest such choice.

Why stop here and not only in Bled

Bled is only a few minutes from Radovljica, so many people just sleep here, which is understandable but at the same time a missed opportunity. The Radovljica square is one of the few Upper Carniolan squares that has kept a continuous medieval shape and that you can walk across in less than half an hour. It is precisely for this reason that you can use Radovljica as a base, as the lake and the mountains are close, and the town is quieter in the evening than Bled. For a visitor this means a quieter evening after a day at Bled or in Bohinj.

What to see in the town centre

The centre of the visit is the old town centre of Radovljica with the manor and the church at the end of the promontory. In the manor operates The Beekeeping Museum, which explains the Slovenian beekeeping tradition and the painted beehive panels that are a speciality of this area. On the square there is also a house with a museum of honey-bread making, where honey cakes are still made. You can see it all in a single morning, because the distance between the points is a few hundred metres.

Where to go nearby: Kropa and Kamna Gorica

Below Jelovica lie two places marked by ironworking and water. Kropa is a former smithing settlement with a narrow channel in the middle of the village and a collection of nail-making heritage, Kamna Gorica is a smaller and quieter version of the same story. Both places are small enough to walk across and close enough to link into one afternoon. As they lie in the valleys below the hill, the way there is scenic too.

What else do visitors do nearby

North of the town is Brezje, a well-known pilgrimage centre that draws visitors even outside church holidays. In Begunje na Gorenjskem below Dobrča is Avsenik Gallery, dedicated to Oberkrain folk music, which spread from this village across the entire German-speaking world. Everything arranged as an experience you will find among experiences in Radovljica. All the Radovljica museum collections are gathered in one place.

What and where to eat in Radovljica

For its size, Radovljica has an unusually good dining offer, shaped by its closeness to Bled. You can choose among the inns in Radovljica, which are mostly in the old core or right nearby. Try the honey cakes, as they are tied to this very town, and for lunch you can choose Upper Carniolan meat dishes. At the weekend reserve a table in advance, because the eateries in the old core are small.

Where to go on a trip from Radovljica

Radovljica is a few minutes by car from Bled and about half an hour from Bohinj, which means you have two very different lake days within reach. To the west a road leads to Kranjska Gora and to Vršič, and to the south to Škofja Loka. If you are planning several days, take a look at the whole destination Julian Alps and use Radovljica as a base. In Lesce is a sports airfield, and you should check the panoramic flights on offer with the current operators.

Where to stay

The offer in the town itself is more modest than you might expect, so look at it together with the guesthouse offering and private rooms. If you need more choice, look for it in the surrounding villages or in Bled, where the offer is larger. Without a car, a location near the old core makes sense, from where you can catch a bus or train in Lesce.

When to come

The town core is rewarding all year, because it is small and compact, so the season decides more about the surroundings than about the town. Spring and autumn are the best for Kropa, Jelovica and cycling days across the Dežela, and summer for swimming and long evenings on the square. In winter Radovljica is a quieter choice than Bled, and you can still drive to the mountains in about half an hour. If crowds bother you, come outside the school holidays.