Ljubljana

Ljubljana: mesto ob reki, grad nad njim in zeleno zaledje

Ljubljana is a capital that does not behave like a capital. You walk across the old town by the Ljubljanica in an hour, climb up to the castle in half an hour, and from the centre you are within half an hour beneath the walls of the Kamnik–Savinja Alps. It is precisely this ratio between smallness and variety that makes visitors stay longer than they planned. You can take a day for the core, and three for the city with its surroundings.

The embankments on both sides of the river are closed to traffic, so sightseeing takes place among the bridges, the market and the arcades, without cars. In addition, Ljubljana is a good starting point: Bled, Postojna Cave and the sea are all less than an hour and a half away.

Staro mesto ob Ljubljanici

The core stretches between the Triple Bridge and the Cobblers' Bridge, and cafés and riverside walks line both banks. The Triple Bridge is Plečnik's solution to a bottleneck, which turned one bridge into three, and is today the most photographed spot in the city.

A few steps on stands the central market with Plečnik's arcades, where the most people gather on Saturdays. Opposite, across the river, is the Dragon Bridge with green dragons on its corners, which have become the unofficial symbol of Ljubljana.

Plečnik's arrangement of the city, from the embankments and bridges to the Križanke and the National and University Library, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2021. If you are interested in how it came about, visit Plečnik House in Trnovo, where the architect lived and worked.

Ljubljana Castle

Three footpaths and a funicular, which starts in the old town, lead up Castle Hill. Ljubljana Castle is not only a viewpoint: it houses exhibitions, a puppet museum, a catering offer and events that run in the courtyard in summer.

From the observation tower, in clear weather, you can see the Kamnik–Savinja Alps, the Julian Alps and the Ljubljana Marsh. Set aside two hours for the visit if you also decide on the exhibitions, otherwise an hour is enough, with a walk back down to the town. The climb on foot is gentle and can be done with younger children too.

Tivoli, Rožnik and the green ring

Tivoli Park begins right behind the Skyscraper and merges to the west with wooded Rožnik, so from the centre you can walk along a forest path within twenty minutes. The Jakopič Promenade with its open-air photography exhibitions is the easiest way into the park, as it begins immediately beyond the underpass by the Skyscraper.

North of the city rises Šmarna gora, a popular excursion peak with an inn and a view of the Alps. The locals set off up it before work, and for a visitor the climb takes about an hour. If you are looking for a view without a long walk, this is the nearest real choice.

Muzeji, galerije in Metelkova

Most of the central museums stand in the belt between Tivoli and Muzejska ulica, so you can link them in a single afternoon. In the City Museum the oldest wooden wheel with an axle in the world is on display, a little over five thousand years old and found on the Ljubljana Marsh.

A few minutes away is Metelkova, a former barracks that has grown from a military complex into a space of alternative culture. By day you can visit it for the murals and sculptural interventions, and in the evening it takes on a completely different character from the old core.

Ljubljansko barje pod mestom

South of the city opens a marshy plain that was once a lake. The Marsh is flat and criss-crossed with cart tracks, so the easiest way to see it is by bike, and in spring and autumn migratory birds stop in the meadows.

On the Marsh the remains of pile-dwelling settlements were discovered, which have been inscribed on the UNESCO list since 2011. If you are interested in the background, you can view the finds in the city museums, while in the field what remains are mainly views of Krim and quiet field paths.

What to do in Ljubljana?

For a first visit, a combination of a walk along the river, the funicular to the castle and a boat ride on the Ljubljanica works well. If you are interested in the modern side of the city, add Metelkova and the galleries, and for a calmer rhythm, cycling across the Ljubljana Marshes south of the city.

In winter the programme moves to the museums, the bathing spots and the December fairs by the river. Check the experiences in Ljubljana and choose the one that suits your pace and the time of year.

Ljubljana for families with children

With children, goals that take one to two hours work well. The funicular ride up to the castle, a boat trip on the Ljubljanica and Ljubljana Zoo below Rožnik are the three most reliable choices, as they are short and close together.

For some exercise there is Tivoli with its meadows and the Ljubljana Marsh with flat cart tracks suitable for cycling. In the rain the museums come into their own, among them the City Museum, where the oldest wooden wheel with an axle in the world is on display, found on the Marsh itself.

Ljubljana v dvoje

For two, it pays to choose the time when the town is quietest: early morning by the river or late afternoon at the castle. Then you can walk along the riverside without any jostling. Dinner on the riverside and a walk across the Cobblers' Bridge are a classic that works in every season.

If you want to get out of the city, Šmarna gora is close enough for a sunset, and Rožnik for a short woodland walk without a car.

Kaj in kje jesti v Ljubljani?

The catering offer in Ljubljana is the most varied in this part of the country. In gostilnah in restavracijah you will find both local dishes, such as soups, štruklji and obara, and modern European cuisine.

On Fridays the Open Kitchen takes place at the market, where the eateries cook outdoors, which is the quickest way to try several cuisines in a single visit. For a sweet pause, stop for a cream cake or an ice cream by the river, which you can eat while walking.

Kje prespati v Ljubljani?

If the focus of your visit is the town, choose accommodation in the old core or right next to it, as you will do most of the sightseeing on foot. You will find the offer in the town among hotels, apartments and private rooms.

If you are travelling by car, staying in the suburban places is as a rule easier, because parking is simpler and you reach the centre in half an hour. Young travellers also have available hostle near the railway station.

Kam na izlet iz Ljubljane?

The nearest trip is Kamnik z Velika Planina, which you can reach from the city in a good half hour. A rewarding choice for families is Volčji Potok Arboretum, which is a good half hour from Ljubljana.

For a longer day choose Bled or Lake Bohinj in the northwest, Postojna Cave in the south or Obalo in Kras with the sea. All three are less than an hour and a half from the town, so they can be visited without moving your accommodation.