Bohinj

Bohinj: the largest natural lake below Triglav

Bohinj is a valley that ends where the high mountains begin. The lake lies at the bottom, and above it the walls of Triglav National Park rise in a semicircle, so the view from the shore is the same everywhere and different every time.

Compared with Bled Bohinj is more spread out and quieter. The offer is not gathered in one place but scattered across the villages from Bohinjska Bistrica to Ukanc, so it pays to know in advance what you will be doing and where you will sleep.

Lake Bohinj

The lake is the largest natural lake in Slovenia, and you can walk around its shore in a good three hours. The path is mostly flat and shady, while on the northern side it turns for one stretch into a narrow track between the rocks and the water.

The most recognisable spot is the stone bridge at Ribčev Laz with the church of St John the Baptist, where most visitors stop first. At the western end is Ukanc, which is quieter and closer to the mountains above the valley.

In summer swimming is possible at several laid-out spots by the lake, where the bottom is gravelly and deepens quickly. The water is colder than at Bled, because mountain tributaries feed it, so swims are as a rule shorter.

Savica Waterfall and the Valley of the Triglav Lakes

Above Ukanc is the Savica Waterfall, which falls in the shape of the letter A from a height of seventy-eight metres. An arranged path with steps leads to the viewpoint; count on about twenty minutes of walking uphill.

Above the waterfall the path continues steeply into the Valley of the Triglav Lakes and to Komna. These are already real high-mountain goals, so for them you need a whole day, suitable footwear and a checked weather forecast.

Vogel and the winter side of the valley

From the southern shore of the lake, a cable car takes you up to Vogel, where a view opens up onto Triglav and the whole valley below it. In winter this is one of the higher-lying Slovenian ski areas, and in summer a starting point for easy ridge walks.

Another winter option in the valley is Soriška planina, which is smaller and more family-oriented. You will find an overview of the winter offer among winter activities in Bohinj.

Stara Fužina, the Mostnica Gorge and the Voje Valley

From Stara Fužina a path leads to the Mostnica Gorge, a narrow gorge with pools and a natural bridge, which you walk in an hour and a half. Above the gorge opens the Voje Valley with mountain pastures and a hay barn, where there are far fewer people than by the lake, and the path is flat enough to walk even with a pushchair.

In the village there is also the Alpine Dairy Museum, which explains how pastoralism shaped the valley and puts Bohinj cheese in context. If you are interested in rural Bohinj, see the museum before heading into the hills, because much of it only comes together on the pastures afterwards.

Triglav National Park and the rules in the valley

A large part of Bohinj lies within Triglav National Park, which is noticeable when it comes to movement and parking. The paths are marked, camping outside the campsites is not allowed, and access to some starting points is limited or paid in summer.

For a visitor this is not an obstacle but a fact worth having before arrival. If you are planning the high mountains, before setting off look at conditions in Triglav National Park, since on the northern slopes snow lies well into summer.

What to do in Bohinj?

In summer the focus is on hiking, cycling along the valley, swimming and rowing on the lake. The water activities are gentle, because there are almost no waves on the lake, so you can take to the water even without experience.

In winter the programme moves to Vogel and to the cross-country trails across the valley floor, where you can ski even without experience, because the trails are gentle. You will find an overview of the offer among experiences in Bohinj.

Bohinj with children

For families, the most rewarding is the combination of the lake and short routes. A walk along the shore, a swim at Ribčev Laz and a cable car ride up Vogel fill the day without long journeys.

The Mostnica Gorge is short enough and varied enough for children, while the Voje Valley is flat and open. In the rain the Alpine Dairy Museum, the pools in the hotels and a ride on the museum train through the valley remain.

Bohinj for two

For a quieter visit, choose the western part of the lake and early morning, when the surface is windless. The walk around the lake is loveliest outside the main season, when the path is almost empty.

For a view without the crowds, you can climb Vogel towards evening or swap the main coast for the Voje Valley.

What and where to eat in Bohinj?

The cuisine is that of the mountain pastures: Bohinj cheese, mohant, žganci, ričet and dishes made from curd. Mohant is a protected cheese speciality that you will not find elsewhere, and it is not to everyone's taste.

In inns and restaurants in the villages the offer is more homely than in the tourist centres, and in summer you can also find a snack in the mountain huts above the valley.

Where to stay in Bohinj?

The offer is scattered across the valley, so the choice of where to stay affects the visit more than elsewhere. By the lake and in Ukanc you are closest to nature and can reach many places on foot, while in Bohinjska Bistrica you have more shops, a pharmacy and the train.

Available are apartments, private rooms and hotels, and in summer demand is high, so arrange your accommodation in advance.

Where to go on a trip from Bohinj?

The nearest trip is Bled, which is a good half hour away, and you can combine it with the Vintgar Gorge. To the north opens Pokljuka with cross-country ski trails and forest paths.

For a longer day you can drive over Sorica into the Selca Valley or over Vršič into the Soča Valley. A broader overview of the destination you will find under the Julian Alps.